Truckstache

sc610

Senior Member
Jan 28, 2011
1,152
190
63
Santa Cruz
Going to try and document the mods on my truck from here on out and gather everything in one place.

I got the truck several years ago from Eric. He was going to law school and needed/wanted a more practical truck. So I traded him for a 2005 Tundra 4x4 with low(er) miles.

It all started with my friend crashing my first Tundra. Insurance took very good care of me and allowed me to buy the 2005.
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Sometime is 2004?
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Installed by Toyota. No problems since day 1 with ~170k miles on it now
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Eric had it linked/lowered/???
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He used it.
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At some point Eric got tired of pavement, and put some glassworks front and rear fenders on
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As well as a spacer lift and some mud terrains
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The truck sounds great, but threw codes due to bad cats. I ordered some universal ones and had them shipped to a friend out of state. Passes smog without issue and well below the limits but throws a PO420 code. I solved that by adding a URD O2 Simulator which eliminates that code and makes it smoggable. It has TRD headers to magnaflow muffler dual in dual out. There is no drone and runs all the way past the axle to minimize noise
Eric's Supercharged Tundra - YouTube

I didn’t like the glassworks front fenders so I sold them and bough some Mcneil 6”. Did a shitty rattle can paint job to protect the fiberglass.
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I had already broken a spindle before and didn’t want to ever experience that again. So I bought Solo spindles. I also swapped out the 600lb coils for 700lb. I upgraded to 35s on 17s so that the tires on my 4runner and the Tundra were interchangeable. Plus they filled the truck out better with the spindles.
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Kind of gives you and idea about how big they are. This also shows that my shock is actually limiting my travel
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After adding the 35s, I couldn’t stand the power loss and so I added 4.56s and an ARB powered by CO2. I added an ammo can to hold the CO2 regulator when I wasn’t using it. I Herculined the bed because it was starting to rust. It has held up really well and was super easy to do
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The 4.56s were replaced when I found a deal on a set of 4.88s. These really are the better choice with 35s.However they revealed how much axle wrap I was still getting. So I built a traction bar and did got rid of ubolts to use 4 grade 8 bolts. Problem solved. These are the only pictures I have of the rear setup.There isn’t much to see anyway. Just 4” Fox air bumps on the outside of the frame, 18” Fox Tripples mounted off the front of the axle. Longer shackles, but nothing fancy
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Did a few trips to Pismo
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After losing about $500 of truck parts out of my bed, I needed a tailgate. I started out wanting to have a tiregate so I built one to hold a 35” tire. After finishing it, I decided the tire would be annoying to have on the back all the time. So now it just serves as a tailgate. I don’t carry a spare unless I go offroad because theft is pretty common where I live and I park in a commuter lot for days on end. Also boxed in the rear of the frame with 1/4” square tubing
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Added UCA bolt gussets, TC shock hoop, and made a cross brace. Too little too late because my buckets had already flexed in and UCA bolt had already bent. My truck doesn’t align very well anymore and heimed UCA are in the future.
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Took it to Pismo again and let my friend drive a little. He promptly got it stuck. Ive been stuck ONCE in the truck in all the times Ive been to Pismo. HP and spooled rear makes it really easy to drive around
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Messed up the transmission on that trip. With the 4.88s, the truck was constantly searching for the right gear especially when the supercharger kicked in. Replaced it with a 20K mile junkyard one. While I had the junkyard transmission, I shimmed the accumulators. Awesome upgrade that I wish I did before
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As soon as the transmission was back in and everything checked out, I broke my 6 month old set of 4.88s. I don’t know if the new transmission was able to transfer torque better or what. I had my stock 4.10 third sitting around and it has been miserable driving without the 4.88s
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Added an adjustable proportioning valve. Big improvement
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I added an electronic shifter to solve the problem of the transmission constantly shifting offroad. This allows me to set it in whichever gear I want and go without having the truck downshift every time it loses traction. One switch is for auto/manual, one for manual TC lockup/no lockup/ auto lockup, and then several switches for the ARB, line lock, whatever else I need. Transmission temp guage is mostly out of curiosity. The console isn’t beautiful, it was my first time working with aluminum, and its dispensable if I ever change it
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My list of things to do before summer:
I have some SAW threaded bodies to add because used 8” bypasses are few and far between
shorten my front bumpstops,
rebuild the rear shocks
add rear disc brakes and get new wheel bearings
Get a clevis to add heim to inner tie rod
Buy a 220 welder to build a cage
 

sc610

Senior Member
Jan 28, 2011
1,152
190
63
Santa Cruz
Awesome write up. Im assuming it's not your dd because of the spool but how's that electronic shifter on the street?

Well I did say spool, but only because when the ARB is locked, the rear wheels are 100% locked. I don't ever use it on the street. The electronic shifter is one of the neatest things I have put on and acts just like a manual without the clutch. Response is instanteous and no more bouncing off the rev limiter when I floor it.


Thanks for the compliments

Dave-I have to get in touch with you I sent you a PM
 

MCKiNNEY

(|) V U L V A
Sep 21, 2008
695
5
18
Santa Monica, CA
Do you mind posting a link to the E shifter you got? How was the install?

You have a great daily driveable setup with the lockable diff and gear selector. Do you notice high tranny temps?
 

sc610

Senior Member
Jan 28, 2011
1,152
190
63
Santa Cruz
The guy in the chair is Eric, the previous owner. Hes a badass and yeah he had a nice setup using hand controls. Both him and his brother drive like maniacs.

1-4 Shift controllers

I bought it from this guy. I think he works out of his garage, but the piece is complete and fit and finish are second to none. Pricing is really fair too. The install was easy, cut 2 wires, lead each of the 4 sides to a switch, and then hook up power and ground. The check engine light comes on when in manual mode, but I have a scanguage so I just clear it when Im done. You could also just unhook the battery.

My transmission temp gauge isnt quality, so I don't trust the validity of the temps. But I use it to compare street temps vs offroad. Highest its ever been is like 180, but it hasn't been too hot since Ive had the gauge.
 

sc610

Senior Member
Jan 28, 2011
1,152
190
63
Santa Cruz
Keeping my eyes peeled for a 4x4 Prerunner to replace this truck and my rockcrawler. If it comes down to it, this truck will have dana 50 ttb under it.

Swapped in a third with 5.29s. Whole new driving experience around the city. RPMs aren't too bad on the freeway.
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Truck budget has pretty much dried up for the next 6 months so I'll be focusing on polishing it

Need:
New tires
Repaint frontend
Replace worn uniballs
Shorten bumpstop
Revalve shocks
Full heim steering
Paint
Brace rear frame
Fix/Replace exhaust
Make mount for Ipad GPS
Swap in a 9"
Simple cage
 

Jimyux!

Senior Member
Mar 26, 2011
990
0
16
Downey
you're looking for a 4x now? clean up this truck, it'll look really clean. we both pretty much need to do the same things lol paint, cage, tires and shorten bumpstops hahah
good luck!
 

sc610

Senior Member
Jan 28, 2011
1,152
190
63
Santa Cruz
Yeah I'm spreading myself thin with 2 trucks and a supermoto. All of them are falling into disrepair. Need just one truck that can do everything and I can just focus my attention on building/repairing one vehicle.



What are normal freeway RPM? 2k?
 

emptyzrider

LiKe-Athon
Apr 20, 2010
9,493
92
48
long beach
Yeah I'm spreading myself thin with 2 trucks and a supermoto. All of them are falling into disrepair. Need just one truck that can do everything and I can just focus my attention on building/repairing one vehicle.



What are normal freeway RPM? 2k?
2500 is okay, I think the norm is between 1700-2700
 

sc610

Senior Member
Jan 28, 2011
1,152
190
63
Santa Cruz
Here's my latest endeavor. Should be wrapped up soon. Need to mount seats, plumb a cooler and new gauge, gears, and plastidip

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sc610

Senior Member
Jan 28, 2011
1,152
190
63
Santa Cruz
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I had originally wanted to ditch the bed, so the new bedcage design came with that in mind. I also planned on adding tube clamps to make the crossmember removable, but I don't want to spend $75 right now, so it will stay as is. Even though I probably have less bed space with this setup, i have more open space which works better for cargo. It was also built with cab cage connections in mind.

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I cut out the coil buckets for 10 shocks. The bypasses are 8" for now and limit my travel to about 13". 10" could probably pull 15 or do
 
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